Gel with extract of stem cells
The main reason of creation and application of cosmetic means is the aspiration to the beauty, inherent in the person. Change of aesthetic representations of mankind about beauty corrects also the maintenance of concept "cosmetics". It results in change in structure and functional purpose of cosmetic means, to occurrence of the new, cosmetic means claimed by the market possessing high efficiency.
Creation of modern effective cosmetic means cannot be without the biological - active component possessing directed action: embedding in a circuit fermental reactions proceeding in a skin, the directed delivery of a signal of a cell to the certain action (for example, to synthesis of collagen and elastin, proliferation proliferation), elimination of free radicals (benzophenone, glutation). Such cosmetic means are on the verge of concepts "cosmetics" and "medicine". The branch of cosmetology, which studies and applies the given cosmetic means, refers to "Cosmecevtica" (Rus.).
Researches of an extract of pig placenta stem cells a have led to a conclusion about presence of valuable biological - active components of factors of growth, cytokines, cytamines and other substances promoting regeneration and proliferation of cells of a skin. Use of an extract as basic biological - active substance in cosmetic means will allow to strengthen its action: to speed up updating cells of a skin due to cell fission of collagen, elastin and keratinocyts. Action of extract stem cells is based not on external influence on cells of a skin, and on alarm mechanisms of intercellular interaction. It is possible to tell, that process goes "from within".
Unique properties extract of stem cells:
• Presence of the growth factor (bFGF), cytokines, cytamines – alarm peptides, cells providing regeneration and fabrics;
• Presence of a wide spectrum vitamins A, D, E, F, K, Q10
Development of a modern compounding of cosmetic means depends on a ultimate goal of its application, therefore the rational decision is the compounding which would emphasize action of the basic working active component – an extract of stem cells. The optimum structure providing uniform distribution of an extract is gel, as against usual emulsion, is demanding a plenty of ballast substances (for example, sated lipids).
There are some kinds of polymers: Na salt carboxymethylcellulose, xantan gum, silicone elastomers, the neutralized polymers acrylic acids and others. Application of this or that of polymers depends on structure of a compounding and used temperature mode.
For preservation of valuable properties extract of stem cells containing growth factor and other biological - active substances, having the albuminous nature and inclined to inactivation at the increased temperatures, the most suitable polymer is the copolymer acrylic acids. Such polymer has also other name – carbomer. Application carbomers allows receiving transparent gels of any viscosity at room temperature and process of preparation of cosmetic means name "cold".
For maintenance of the maximal cosmetic effect it is necessary to enter into a compounding of gel nonsaturated fat vegetable acids not synthesized in an organism of animals and the person. One of the top-quality oils is Avocado (Persea gratissima). Avocado oil possesses fine recycling properties, supplementing action extract of stem cells. Thanking to components (phospholipids, tocopherols, sterins (β-sitosterin, campesterin, avenasterin), scvalen) and to the high contents of polynonsaturated fat acids (oleic, palmitic, linolic and others) well restores structure epidermis and improves moisture-holding properties of a skin.
Avocado Oil has high viscosity, therefore for improvement fluidity gel on a surface of a skin and elimination of its stickiness in a compounding is entered Cyclomethicone (Dow Corning, the USA). Use Cyclomethicones on a basis Cyclopentasiloxane has improved organoleptical parameters of gel.
As is known fat-soluble components (Avocado Oil, Cyclomethicone) do not mix up with water, therefore we applied surface-active substance – silicone emulsifier PEG-12 Dimethicone which it is good mixing silicone and vegetable oils. After updating PEG-12 Dimethicone it is capable to form vesicles.
The acid (Hyalyronic acid, LMW) which is a structural part epidermise can give gel humidifying properties low-molecular Hyalyronic acid. One molecule Hyalyronic acid is capable to keep acids up to 100 molecules of water. Hyalyronic acid forms on a surface of skin a film holding water and passing oxygen, thus, humidifying a skin due to internal reserves of an organism.
Pleasant aroma gives to gel parfum Curt Georgy (Germany). For preservation of gel water-soluble preservative Kathon CG (USA) is entered.
Thus, development of a compounding of effective cosmetic means is possible only in view of tendencies of the modern cosmetic market and use of the newest materials. Use silicones, hyalyronic acid and avocado oil allow emphasizing and strengthening action of the basic biological -active substance – extract of stem cells.